I like this detector’s raw, powerful signal tone. This combines with its super fast processing to give you a lot of target information–especially in dense iron. This makes simple basic target tests–like using the cross sweep and pinpoint mode to check signals much more effective. Its also very deep and gets a lot of stuff at worked out sites just for that reason. The Anfibio is my dense iron detector of choice and it has come though really well at a local “truck grove” type site that has seen every kind of detector there is. I set a big gap between the two top tone “bins” so as to be able to hear the deepest turn-of the-century silver coins in amongst the iron. I decided to create a guide to some of these effective dense iron techniques. The book is also a detailed general guide to tuning and understanding this versatile machine’s best features. Anyone who wants to learn more about the Anfibio methods that have worked well for me please take a look at my book:
“Successful Treasure Hunting with the Nokta / Makro Anfibio” available at this site under “Products.”
Good Luck Detecting,
From “worked out” sites.
A few of my Anfibio finds from the dense iron of the “truck grove.”
Successful Treasure Hunting with the Nokta / Makro Anfibio Multi
Clive James Clynick is the author of some 25 detecting “how-to” books and numerous articles. In this detailed and informative book he shares his 40 years of experience and instructs you on how to become a more accurate and successful treasure hunter with the Notka / Makro Anfibio Multi detector. Topics include:
• Getting the Most from the Anfibio’s Selectable Frequencies
• Dense Iron Methods: Recognizing False Signals.
• Coil Control Skills and Methods.
• Deep Silver Coin Hunting.
• High Power Signal Balancing for Depth and Accuracy.
• Anfibio Gold Jewelry Hunting Tips and Methods.
Clive’s books are a treasure trove of information! They open up a whole new dimension to the Equinox. I have all of them.
…the two nox books are just what the new nox owner needs. I got my nox back in march 2018 and feel only now that I now how to get the most out of the machine. Don’t get me wrong. On the first day you can put it in park 1/2 or field 1/2 or beach or gold and just start hunting. But to truly get the most out of the machine you need to really study how to use all these new features and put them to use for your type of hunting.
His books were a great help to me. I have read both books twice. Once before really using the nox and the second time after I had about 50 hours on the machine. Learned more on the second reading. MK
I directly attribute my success at consistently finding gold to one of Clive’s books.
I’ve got 6 of Clive’s books. They’ve got some good info in them, helped me a lot when learning to use a PI on the beaches. The Equinox books are good too, he goes way beyond the basic adjustments.
I consider myself reasonably proficient, but if I can learn something that makes a difference in finding even one more gold ring or silver coin then the cost of this book is well worth it.
I have many of Clive’s books and always find them very readable and quite worthwhile.
Thanks kindly, guys!
Equinox Gold Hunting Tips
..use the cross sweep to recognize some of those elongateds. Maybe get some practice in 2 tone–listening for solid, consistent responses. Super prime ground with activity if possible–big numbers. Work on your accuracy and go to the middle…and time…
I would add to that with the Equinox turn it down so the modulation does not make all these flyspecks sound solid and big. I usually run at 19. Just seems to be more of a balanced signal–at least in salt water. Let’s you hear everything and still gets great depth.
Going up to “22” or higher brings up rust, steel and stuff that’s too small (like some of those foils) and just too weak of a signal to be gold. Just focusing on the conductivity of a signal doesn’t work that well with the Equinox–“where” and “how big is this object” are just as important. Each confirms the others–adding to your accuracy.
You’ll have an easier time of it if you work on your accuracy first–the high settings can come later.
A few really deep rings I got with the CTX 3030 big coil a few years back by way of signal balancing–some close to 20″.
My CTX had been in the shop for quite a while–it had the old config and leaked more than once. One bulkhead, one set of clips and two lithium cells later she was still drinking brine. Thanks to Minelab I’ve just gotten a like new machine and am very excited and grateful. (…the metal detecting equivalent of a virgin in the afterlife). Anyhow, I do a lot of testing in my basement in that the interference from furnace, household panel and dryer simulate actual tough salt surf conditions. If you can tune a detector inside–you are doing something right. This is especially true of big coils. I have the large coils for my CTX, Equinox 800 and a WOT hardwired for my Blue Tubes Excal. There is a ton to be learned about signal balancing big coils under these high interference conditions. This kind of testing has gotten me a lot of deep, heavy gold in conditions where there is a lot of pro-level competition. First, its amazing how much of a difference in performance loss (even in air) there is between large and stock coils. These big coils just suck the interference out of the air (or water). What I notice is that target sounds have a much more “inverse” .sound–as if the threshold was “taking over.” The higher you turn the Gain–the quieter targets get. In some instances–the stock coil actually hits targets further out. (Talk about a “teachable moment!)”
One thing that’s worked well with the CTX has been to run a P2 version of one of the programs that features one or a couple of reject lines. (Andy’s Beach for example) This seems to balance the signal and reduce all the reverberation-type noise. This works well in the field too–especially of you don’t pile on more interference from current and any incline. This involves a slow sweep speed and working only North / South. I’ve gotten some rings down at the 20″ level this way. The Excalibur–as hard to tune with the WOT coil as it can be–is a simpler platform with less going on–electronically. While it can’t be run that high–maybe at 1 to 2 o’clock is a balanced signal–it does get great depth in discriminate–taking rings at an easy 18″-plus. It’s also stable.
Now the Equinox is one of the hardest detectors to tune with a big coil that I’ve used. My usual 2 Tone method works–but is unstable and gets only moderate depth. My super-sharp responding gold magnet “Undertune” (GB -9 / tone “25”) method is out of the question. Without Ground Balancing–the threshold is lilting, uneven and requires careful coil control. I’ve seen videos of guys running down at “14” Gain–unacceptable. Why bother with a big coil to run that weak of a signal? The sense I have is that this detector has a hard time supporting a coil that size. When I run near-preset B2 with 5 Tones–it seems more balanced and stable. This is about the only time I’ve ever been driven back to the pre-sets to balance a detector. It’s a good coil–but hard to balance–just saying. I see a detection signal as being kind of like an arithmetic sum. When you keep subtracting with say, fast water, Gain too high, (in this case) Recovery Speed too fast, high saline conditions bottom contours / inclines and the work a detector does with a highly processed signal like that of the CTX or EQ–what’s left is not always enough to get any more depth than the stock coil. The larger the coil–the greater the affect these factors have. I’m still learning with both of these detectors / coils but am really struggling to get any respectable depth–especially with the EQ. I’ve a lot of great signal balancing “tricks” up my sleeve–including smoothing out the threshold with a “1” discriminate setting or even bringing up the Tone Break–but have yet to find anything that convinces me that a narrower–more manageable detection field drawing less interference would not perform better. I’ve also been instructed on the forums to keep the Recovery Speed low–down at “4” with the big EQ coil. This is just not that stable in salt conditions unless its absolutely still. Of the two, the CTX wins in terms of stability–but for coils that size–even compared to the WOT–the depth just does not seem to be enough to justify the extra swinging effort–at least not in salt water. I’m open to Equinox big coil salt water suggestions. Otherwise–next trip–the coil at least–is staying home.
From the “War Room”.
Anyone travelling to detect with the Equinox should bring the following:
1/ A very light emery cloth. (A pencil eraser has also been suggested to me although I’ve not tried this).
2/ A good quality contact spray.
When I went to charge my machine–there was no green charge light. I’ve also had the problem of it not completing properly–ie. light continues to flash. Look for the following:
1/ Iron filings on the magnetic contacts interfering with the charge. These can be on either side–machine or cable.
2/ Green ferrigris on one or more of the charge points. I sprayed this with an “okay” points cleaner and hit it with a wire brush–still no charge light. It was only when I actually sanded the points with the emery cloth and hit it with some “Deoxit Gold” that it began to charge.
Especially when you have hunted in salt water–these points develop a film of oxidization on them–completely blocking any current flow.
My CTX coils do the same thing–looks dead until you get some spray on it.
Proceeds of a brutal trip–sick half the time. Bracelet is 18k 34.9 gr–a lunker. Also a couple of small bands one 22k and some silver. Kept at it though and had some luck with the Minelab Equinox–running in my 2 Tone “Pulse” mode. Also–I run at “19” Sens–seems to keep the audio more orderly–more of a balanced signal. The big hunk of old silver jewelry was super deep in the same section–a cue to keep going. When the bracelet came up is was very orange–had to have been down a while.
I’m proud to announce my new 120 page book on developing your skills and accuracy with the Equinox.
You could say that this is an advanced book about simple skills. These small, basic skills, tricks and competencies add up to “more than the sum of the parts” in what they allow you to do with the Equinox. It’s my hope that the book will teach readers to:
-develop generalizable skills that can be applied at any type of site–park, relic or shoreline.
-create effective custom settings for your sites by responding to the conditions.
-understand and manage some of this detector’s performance “trade-offs.”
-overcome conditions-related problems.
-get more depth and hunt with greater accuracy using this great detector platform.
-understand and apply the Minelab Equinox “2.0” upgrade.
Skill-Building with the Minelab Equinox Metal Detector
By Clive James Clynick
Clive James Clynick is the author of some 24 previous treasure hunting “how-to” books and numerous articles. In this detailed and informative book, he explains how understanding the Equinox’s operating characteristics and features can help you to find more treasure. Topics include:
- Dense Iron Methods and Skill Building
- Walk First. How Small Skills Add Up to Accuracy
- Managing the Heavily Processed, Modulated Signal
- Understanding and Managing the Power Curve
- Beyond Meter and Tone
- Accuracy and Conclusiveness
- Salt Water Stabilization and Depth Tips from Top Hunters
- Signal Balancing the Equinox for More Depth
- ‘Micro’ Gold and Chain Hunting
- Understanding the Upgrades
…and much more…
(8.5 X 5.5, softbound 120 pages)
…quite a few actually. During that period I used the CZ20, the Dual Field, The Barracuda, the Goldquest, Sovereign, and more recently the CTX3030. If I had to pick a favorite it would be the Dual Field.
Good Luck Detecting! cjc
Some of the better ones “little nickels” (a few Edward and Victoria) and some favorites including a Standing Liberty and my one Seated coin a half dime. Holed or not I will take it….