Couple of things I’ve learned the hard way:
1/ Any rotating of the coil on it’s bracket causes the hardware to wear. This might not be evident but it is happening. Once the pigtail wears and breaks –the coil cable is not far behind. If you see this happening try and epoxy it solid to prolong the life of the coil. A couple of thin plastic washers cut out of drink bottle tops can keep the coil more solid on the isolator without you having to tighten the screw to the point where it may strip or break.
2/ Use some silicone grease on your coil jack threads. If they start to corrode it will be harder to get the thread to catch–and breaking a pin while trying becomes more likely. These are surprisingly small and delicate pins by standard–nothing more sickening than hearing one snap.
3/ With either bulkhead configuration, leaks can be a problem. If you are having leaks despite your best gasket cleaning efforts suspect the clips / pins themselves. These can wear–reducing the strength of the seal. Shimming the sides of the battery where the clips seat is an option to temporarily increase the seal. Be sure to put tape or an elastic around the bulkhead as they will now be more prone to opening. I sometimes tape around the entire seal to prevent sand from entering the gap. The grey gasket that the new bulkhead design has does not do much and is prone to being moved off the crack.
4/ If your stem cam lock wears and stops holding the isolator solidly, put two zip ties–one under each hinge. This will solve the problem permanently.
5/ Always, always bring contact spray with you if you plan to hunt with the CTX. It may be because I run it in salt, but when these co-ax plugs oxidize they are dead as a door nail. Only a spritz of contact spray will restore them. You might get away with some toothpaste (Coca-Cola?) and a toothbrush but I haven’t tried it and would not like to bet a hunt on it.
More general detecting tips and some great CTX 3030 programs are at my site: